Many jewelry lovers own, or at least covet, a classic white strand of cultured pearls or a pair of luminous pearl stud earrings. No wonder…timeless and beautiful, cultured pearls are always in style (just ask Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel). When properly cared for, pearl jewelry can last a lifetime or longer, and can be passed down as a treasured keepsake from generation to generation. But pearls can be expensive.
If, due to budgetary concerns, you fall into the category of ‘pearl lover’ rather than ‘pearl owner,’ you’ll be happy to know you don’t have to put off buying pearls any longer. Thanks to improvements in culturing techniques and a recent shift in pearl farmers’ focus from quantity to quality, today’s freshwater cultured pearls are as beautiful as their saltwater cousins—and far more affordable. Freshwater pearls are a great option if you’re looking to buy good quality pearls on a budget.
But freshwater pearls are having a tough time shaking their dubious reputation. Once we debunk the common myths that surround these beautiful gems, though, you may just treat yourself to a set of luminous and affordable freshwater pearls—or three!
Freshwater pearls, like this four strand necklace modeled by Schooner, can be just as beautiful as their saltwater cousins.
Myth: Freshwater pearls aren’t real pearls.Fact: Freshwater pearls are indeed real pearls, made from the same substance—nacre—as their saltwater cousins. The difference? Saltwater pearls grow in oysters that live in the ocean. Freshwater pearls grow in mollusks found in lakes, rivers, ponds and streams. The process that creates the pearls is the same for both freshwater and saltwater pearls, although freshwater pearls take longer to grow (anywhere from two to six years, while their saltwater counterparts are ready for harvest within six to 26 months). What’s more, because freshwater pearls are nucleated with a piece of mantle tissue (a fleshy part of the oyster or mussel) rather than a mother-of-pearl bead, they’re nearly solid nacre. Saltwater pearls consist of layers of nacre formed around a mother-of-pearl starter bead. One could argue that freshwater pearls are more “real” than saltwater pearls!
Myth: All freshwater pearls are rice-krispie shaped.Fact: In the beginning, when pearl farmers first started to produce significant quantities of freshwater cultured pearls, the inexpensive, plentiful gems were often shaped like rice cereal, and they still can look like that today. Yet, thanks to improvements in pearl culturing techniques, freshwater cultured pearls also come in many other shapes, including round. Once Chinese pearl farmers—who produce the majority of the world’s freshwater cultured pearls—realized they had to improve pearl shape and quality to be successful, they set out to improve their harvest and eventually were able to consistently produce round freshwater cultured pearls. The improvement in freshwater pearl quality has been slow but steady since around 1990. According to the Gemological Institute of America, today about 70 percent of the nucleations at one large pearl farm near Chenghai, China yield actual cultured pearls, and of those, 90 percent are round and near-round (not much hope for rice krispie enthusiasts)! Today, pearl jewelry lovers can buy freshwater cultured pearls in a wide variety of shapes, including round.
Myth: Freshwater pearls are inferior to saltwater pearls.
Fact: Once Chinese pearl farmers realized there was a market for quality freshwater cultured pearls—and that they could increase profits by selling quality gems for more money—they began to concentrate on improving pearl culturing techniques. Today, the best freshwater pearls are comparable in quality to their saltwater cousins, and it’s difficult for an expert to tell the difference between the two. In fact, GIA says freshwater cultured pearls grace rings, earrings, pendants, brooches and strands, and consumers are often unaware that they’re buying freshwater. This is a clear testament to the quality level that some freshwater cultured pearls have attained! Another advantage of freshwater pearls: They come in a wide range of beautiful, natural pastel colors, from white to cream to pink, yellow, orange, purple and beyond.
Other interesting facts about the freshwater pearl:
· China, Japan and the United States all produce freshwater cultured pearls, but China produces more than ten times the amount of freshwater cultured pearls than all other countries combined. · Freshwater ‘blister’ pearl culturing has been around since the 13th century.
· Most freshwater pearls grown in China are bleached after they are harvested; freshwater cultured pearls grown in the United States are not.
· “Biwa” pearls refer to freshwater pearls grown in Japan’s Lake Biwa. Biwa is not a generic term for freshwater cultured pearls.
Mother's Day is fast approaching--it's May 11, for those of you who don't know. Spend some time and get mom a thoughtful gift this year. Here are my top three picks, all involving my favorite gem, the pearl:
