The Perfectly Imperfect Pearl

If you’re a pearl lover like I am, you know these sea gems are just gorgeous and that no other jewelry quite pulls off the sophisticated, elegant vibe that pearls do. I’ve successfully paired the gems with sundresses, jeans, a business suit and my wedding dress (both times)! In short, pearls are just perfect.

Actually, they aren’t.

What the heck am I talking about? A trait known as “surface characteristics.” Although most people think of pearls as round and smooth, they’re actually relatively rough, and are commonly marred by all sorts of irregularities, making them far from “perfect.” (This roughness gave rise to the “tooth” test, whereby you can tell real pearls by the grit you feel when you rub them against your teeth). Personally, I believe these irregularities are what make the gems uniquely beautiful. Let’s explore…

Pearl Value Factors: How Surface Characteristics Fit In
Thanks to aggressive publicity campaigns sponsored by the diamond industry, most of us know that buying a quality diamond entails asking about carat, cut, clarity, color and cost. The five Cs, as they’re commonly known, allow buyers to make informed decisions based on a universally accepted grading system. No such system exists for pearls, which makes buying these gems a bit more difficult. What we do have is a grading system developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the world’s largest non-profit institute of gemological research and learning, which takes into account seven pearl traits when determining value. These traits include size, shape, color, luster, surface quality, nacre quality, and matching. All things being equal, luster is the most important value factor, since luster, or surface sheen, is what gives a pearl its unique beauty. But it’s surface quality we’re discussing here.

Pearl Surface Characteristics
Because they aren’t machine made, pearls are imperfect, meaning they are not the uniform, shiny, perfectly round orbs you probably picture when you think of the gems. Rather, as natural objects formed by an animal secreting layer upon layer of organic materials, pearls typically show many surface characteristics. These blemishes, such as abrasions, bumps, chips, cracks, pits, scratches and wrinkles, are common. In fact, most people will never see a “perfect” pearl in their lifetime. Luckily, minor surface irregularities do not detract from a pearl’s value. (If you see a “perfect” pearl strand, it’s probably faux. If it’s not, is likely way beyond your means, unless your last name happens to be Gates, Trump or Winfrey.)

According to GIA, there are four classifications of pearl surface characteristics:
Clean: The pearl can be blemish-free, or spotless, or contain minute surface characteristics that are very difficult to see when examined by a trained observer.
Lightly blemished: These pearls show minor surface irregularities when inspected by a trained observer.
Moderately blemished: These pearls show noticeable surface characteristics.
Heavily blemished: The pearls show obvious surface irregularities, which can compromise durability.

The pearl’s overall appearance determines its value—you don’t have to note every little blip. That said, obvious or multiple surface characteristics or large blemishes that affect the gem’s durability detract from its value; conversely, a more clean-looking pearl is worth more. Luckily, small bumps and blemishes can often be hidden by a drill hole. According to GIA, “…a completely clean pearl is a rare treasure. Since rarity influences value, the prices of such pearls run extremely high. Most consumers must settle for some degree of surface irregularity in the pearl they purchase. Even the finest pearls can contain minor surface characteristics.”

All things considered, if you’re buying pearls, a few minor characteristics are no big deal. Look for an excellent luster, a round shape and a large size (if you like large pearls) over a few minor pits or dings. They won’t detract from the jewelry and chances are you won’t notice them. Some women even deliberately choose blemished pearls. Circle pearls, also known as ringed pearls, account for 25 to 30 percent of the Tahiti cultured pearl harvest. The pearls, which often have highly desirable multiple hues, are characterized by concave grooves. According to Modern Jeweler, circle pearls are “red-hot and growing hotter.” The reason? Customers know the pearls are real; their obvious blemishes are a sure sign that the gems were formed by a mollusk rather than a machine. According to article author David Federman, circle pearls have a look all their own. “Unlike other baroque pearls,” he writes, “they are usually fully or semi-symmetrical with oval, oblong, and drop shapes.” He says their ridged surfaces intensify iridescence, especially in black pearls. “With big farmer backlogs to choose from, dealers can offer strands that are well-matched for color, luster, and complexion.”

If you’re in the market for pearl jewelry, whether you deliberately choose circle pearls or purchase a round strand of slightly blemished beauties, you’ll have a gorgeous new piece to accent